Welcome to Westways Press Guidebooks
by author Tom Baake
about: Road Conditions, LaVerne Park, Moon Creek
Out Our Back Door
Introduction:
Welcome to Oregon’s spectacular South Coast! Exciting
things are happening, with new areas open for recreation, new roads and
trails for exploration, and improvements at many favorite destinations.
Yet it was the curmudgeon in me that originally inspired
this book. Frustrated by crowds at the better-known sites along the coast,
I began checking out some of the back roads and overlooked places. I was
pleasantly surprised to find many quiet little spots to go for a picnic.
It’s amazing how many interesting things you can do in
this region. Ocean beaches, coastal bays and estuaries, the Oregon Dunes,
rivers and waterfalls, lakes and forests, the miles of peaceful countryside
and old roads . . .
This is great for visitors, of course, and perhaps even
better for locals. You don’t really have to make long excursions to see
some of the scenic attractions that make Oregon so famous. They’re right
here, right in our back yard, “out our back door.” You can sneak out for
a little picnic, and be back by the end of the day!
For most of these outings, consider making a day of it, especially
if you're inclined to stop occasionally, which I strongly advocate. Needless
to say, a full fuel tank and a picnic lunch should be part of the plan.
More about logistics in a moment.
As noted earlier, these are intended as day trips, but
many can be expanded to longer treks. I’ve included information about camping
and other travel options.
While this is a book about back-road tours, it includes
trips to the top scenic attractions. It's not fair to overlook them simply
because they're popular. They're not always crowded!
Whenever possible, the driving expeditions are made
into loops. You don’t necessarily have to complete the loop, of course,
and the drives can be approached from either direction. But there's often
a reason for my recommendation -- views, for example, or an easier
grade "going home."
The exceptions are chapters on local beaches, the Oregon
Dunes, and South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve. For those,
a general overview is offered, with emphasis on walking options. Also included
are in-town walks, as well as a chapter on hiking trails in the Siskiyou
National Forest near Powers.
Some lonely roads are traveled in this book. There
are details about road conditions and seasonal access, but you should always
check with local sources about current conditions when traveling far afield.
Weather-related closures and detours, budget crises and high forest fire
danger can affect access.
Oh yes. . . about the weather. First of all, average rainfall
is 60 inches per year. It pours down -- or blows in sideways -- during
awesome storms in winter and early spring.
Trees are toppled, hillsides collapse, roads are closed,
lowland areas are flooded. Yet it hardly rains a drop during July, August
and September. We dry out and head to the other extreme: forest fire
danger.
Then there’s the wind. During most of the summer, you
can count on wind from the north kicking up nearly every afternoon along
the coast. Also fog in the mornings and evenings. Just a few miles inland,
though, it can be fine and warm and windless. That’s where this book comes
in handy, taking you from the chilly coast to an inland picnic where it’s
a nice day again.
Best time of year on the coast is Indian Summer, after
the first rain or two. The wind has died down, the crowds have thinned
out, and the light lies mellow across the land and seascape. There’s still
plenty of warm sunshine and picnic opportunities. In winter, too, come
interludes of almost balmy weather. The southern Oregon coast is frequently
the warmest place in the state in wintertime, and there can be pleasant
days of “false spring” that make you forget the weeks of dreary rainfall
and gray skies. Indeed, so much of life on the coast is about the weather,
and the weather’s always changing.
Road Conditions
All tours in this book have been driven in a standard,
two-wheel-drive family sedan. Most trips are on paved roads, sometimes
with short stretches of gravel. A few are primarily gravel-road trips.
You’re not going to be comfortable negotiating some of the tours in an
RV or towing a trailer. Remember that gravel roads get muddy, worse as
winter progresses. In summer and fall they get dusty.
Several routes are closed by snow in late fall and winter,
and are so identified in the “notes” section at the start of each chapter.
THEY
SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED WHEN SNOWBOUND!
Most importantly, many tours travel through working forests.
That means you may encounter -- as in coming at you head-on -- fully-loaded
log trucks, gravel trucks, water trucks, utility trucks, fire trucks, road
graders or other heavy equipment. And as with any back-country travel,
you'll encounter the occasional fallen rock and downed tree, but roads
are rarely blocked for long
The single most important rule to remember is: JUST
TAKE IT SLOWLY.
As for maps, those included in this book are all you need
to complete the trips, but it never hurts to have more maps. Start with
the State of Oregon highway map, then consider one of the privately produced
regional maps. Chamber of commerce offices and info centers often have
free “tear-off” maps.
U.S. Forest Service offices in Florence, Reedsport, Powers, Gold Beach
and Brookings have maps for the Siuslaw and Siskiyou National Forests and
for each respective ranger district. The Bureau of Land Management office
in North Bend has detailed maps of BLM-managed areas. The combined Siskiyou
National Forest/Coos Bay District BLM map is an excellent resource, available
from either agency’s offices.
A couple of the tours have their own guidebooks or brochures
with maps, available from chamber of commerce offices, visitor information
centers, county and state parks offices, the U.S. Forest Service and the
Bureau of Land Management.
Map fever has soared to new heights with the use of global
positioning satellite (GPS) technology, not to mention the advent of CD-ROM-based
mapping software and Internet-available maps. Maps can be found at many
places on-line, via government agencies and private sources, some of which
are listed in the back of this book. There are errors and glitches in all
of them. So I’ve worked hard to make the maps in this book as up-to-date
as possible.
The best rule of thumb: when in doubt, stay on main roads. They'll
lead you back to civilization. Every effort is made to maintain directional
signs in the backcountry, but vandals, target-shooters and souvenir hunters
wage a relentless siege.
Once again, remember that you're in a neck of the woods
seriously intent on farming trees. Get ready to behold some formidable
clearcuts, along with the systematic transformation of mixed-species forest
into Douglas fir tree farms. No politics intended, merely a factual note.
That's not to say the grandeur is gone. It's just that it exists these
days in what I call islands, and seeking them out takes a bit of venturing
in the backcountry.
So let's venture to an island . . . and have a picnic.
Here’s a sample chapter from the book:
La Verne Park - Moon Creek Tour
Road conditions: Paved.
Notes: Roundtrip from Coos Bay to LaVerne County
Park, 60 miles. Moon Creek loop adds about 20 miles. Good getaway from
summer wind along coast. Camping, day-use, swimming, fishing.
LaVerne Park is one of the crown jewels of the Coos
County Parks system, and is actually two parks situated about 15 miles
north of Coquille. Tucked into a narrow canyon along the Coquille River’s
north fork, the park is well protected from the overcast, foggy or windy
conditions that can prevail on the coast in summertime. Temperatures reach
80 and 90 degrees, making swimming, picnicking, camping and other such
activities quite delightful.
West LaVerne Park caters to reserved picnics for up to
300 people, and there are large, covered shelters for such events, as well
as horseshoe pits, two softball fields, playground area and hiking trails.
The main park offers camping and more group picnic areas with pavilions,
another playground and ball field and such, and a swimming/wading area
along a sandy beach.
It’s all a nice drive, too. Beyond the park the road leads
to paved roads through BLM land. You can make a loop out of part of the
trek by continuing this way along Moon Creek. The forest roads are literally
lined with wildflowers in summer, while in autumn you can enjoy the colorfully
changing leaves of maples and other deciduous trees.
Getting There
From Coos Bay, head south on US 101 about 5 miles and take
Highway 42 to Coquille. Take the West Coquille exit (West Central Blvd.),
following signs to LaVerne Park. In 1 mile turn left on Fairview Rd., following
signs to Fairview, LaVerne Park.
The road rolls through the lush pasturelands, passing peaceful country
places. It weaves easily through the lowlands and begins a gentle climb
into the hills, pushing up in earnest and topping off about 3.7 miles along.
There are grand views to the east from here, miles of forest in various
stages of growth, from recent clear-cuts to older tracts.
Take it easy around the tight curves, then relax for the
ride down toward Burton Prairie. About 7 miles from Coquille is Fairview
and the “Four Corners” intersection with the Coos Bay Wagon Road (called
Lone Pine Ln. along here). The store is last chance for provisions on this
trek.
Proceed (N) across the intersection, still following signs
to LaVerne Park, and passing many homey residences. The road follows the
sinews of the Coquille River’s north fork, down there in a jungle of blackberry
vine and brush.
If you’re here in summer, the temperature rises delightfully
in the sheltered canyons and small valleys, and the air is rich with birdsong
and the smell of blossoms. A classic old Smokey the Bear sign signals the
end of “civilization” as the road plunges into the woods, and not far beyond
is West LaVerne Park, where there’s camping and group facilities.
The “main” park is just beyond, with camping, day-use,
swimming and fishing. At this writing day-use was free.
Seeking sun, or shade? There are picnic tables and benches
set about strategically for both. Other corners of the park offer places
to play everything from volleyball to horseshoes, or you can just enjoy
the farther reaches of cool serenity.
That vexing wind of the coast has been left far behind;
it’s mellowed to a gentle breeze that actually feels refreshing in the
countrified heat, as does the river: wonderful and not cold at all.
Onward to MoonCreek
This, you might say, sounds like a fine enough outing.
And you’d be correct. You could go to LaVerne Park, have a nice stay, turn
around and come back. Why not? But for continued exploration, after a sojourn
in LaVerne Park, press on (N) beyond the park.
In about 1.7 miles, turn right (E) on paved Moon Creek
Rd., BLM 26-11-33.0 The road crosses a concrete bridge and heads east along
Moon Creek, which flows through a picture-perfect corridor of sheltering
alders. You’re in serious wildflower country now, and the way during much
of the summer is gloriously hemmed in with iris, tiger lilies, foxglove
and many other varieties, along with such blooming shrubs as salmonberry
and ocean spray.
After about 3.5 miles of level ambling through this wondrous
forest, the road begins a gentle climb. The wildflowers now cascade off
sheer hillsides, while succulent rockfasts burst forth in blossom from
every nook and cranny. The climb becomes more pronounced as the road crosses
the watershed divide.
Many intriguing-looking side roads intersect Moon Creek Rd., but stick
to pavement. In about 7.4 miles from LaVerne Park is a “T” intersection
with BLM 27-10-6.0. Turn right (S). The road heads downhill, offering views
through the trees. Down, down we go!
At the bottom of the canyon, about 11.7 miles from LaVerne
Park, is another “T” intersection, this one with BLM 27-11-29.0. This is
Middle Creek Rd., although it’s unmarked here except for a Growing Forest
Tour sign. Turn right (S).
The road follows Middle Creek, another pretty little
stream bubbling through an arching canopy of white-barked alder. Here,
too, are many huge moss-covered maples, their big leaves cool and green
in summer and golden-hued in autumn.
A scattering of homes announces a gradual return from
the deeper woods. More ranches and farms appear, and at about 20.7 miles
from the start of this expedition at LaVerne Park is a “T” intersection
with Lone Pine Ln. Turn right (W) and follow it about 5.3 miles back to
Fairview, and from there turn left (S) to return to Coquille and Coos Bay.
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