Oregon's Coos Region Canoe and Kayak Guide

Out Our Back Door
Introduction:
   Welcome to Oregon’s spectacular South Coast! Exciting things are happening, with new areas open for recreation, new roads and trails for exploration, and improvements at many favorite destinations.
   Yet it was the curmudgeon in me that originally inspired this book. Frustrated by crowds at the better-known sites along the coast, I began checking out some of the back roads and overlooked places. I was pleasantly surprised to find many quiet little spots to go for a picnic.
   It’s amazing how many interesting things you can do in this region. Ocean beaches, coastal bays and estuaries, the Oregon Dunes, rivers and waterfalls, lakes and forests, the miles of peaceful countryside and old roads . . .
   This is great for visitors, of course, and perhaps even better for locals. You don’t really have to make long excursions to see some of the scenic attractions that make Oregon so famous. They’re right here, right in our back yard, “out our back door.” You can sneak out for a little picnic, and be back by the end of the day!
For most of these outings, consider making a day of it, especially if you're inclined to stop occasionally, which I strongly advocate. Needless to say, a full fuel tank and a picnic lunch should be part of the plan. More about logistics in a moment.
   As noted earlier, these are intended as day trips, but many can be expanded to longer treks. I’ve included information about camping and other travel options.
   While this is a book about back-road tours, it includes trips to the top scenic attractions. It's not fair to overlook them simply because they're popular. They're not always crowded!

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    Whenever possible, the driving expeditions are made into loops. You don’t necessarily have to complete the loop, of course, and the drives can be approached from either direction. But there's often a reason for my recommendation -- views, for example, or an easier grade "going home."
   The exceptions are chapters on local beaches, the Oregon Dunes, and South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve. For those, a general overview is offered, with emphasis on walking options. Also included are in-town walks, as well as a chapter on hiking trails in the Siskiyou National Forest near Powers.
    Some lonely roads are traveled in this book. There are details about road conditions and seasonal access, but you should always check with local sources about current conditions when traveling far afield. Weather-related closures and detours, budget crises and high forest fire danger can affect access.
   Oh yes. . . about the weather. First of all, average rainfall is 60 inches per year. It pours down -- or blows in sideways -- during awesome storms in winter and early spring.
   Trees are toppled, hillsides collapse, roads are closed, lowland areas are flooded. Yet it hardly rains a drop during July, August and September. We dry out and head to the other extreme: forest fire danger.
   Then there’s the wind. During most of the summer, you can count on wind from the north kicking up nearly every afternoon along the coast. Also fog in the mornings and evenings. Just a few miles inland, though, it can be fine and warm and windless. That’s where this book comes in handy, taking you from the chilly coast to an inland picnic where it’s a nice day again.
   Best time of year on the coast is Indian Summer, after the first rain or two. The wind has died down, the crowds have thinned out, and the light lies mellow across the land and seascape. There’s still plenty of warm sunshine and picnic opportunities. In winter, too, come interludes of almost balmy weather. The southern Oregon coast is frequently the warmest place in the state in wintertime, and there can be pleasant days of “false spring” that make you forget the weeks of dreary rainfall and gray skies. Indeed, so much of life on the coast is about the weather, and the weather’s always changing.

   Road Conditions
   All tours in this book have been driven in a standard, two-wheel-drive family sedan. Most trips are on paved roads, sometimes with short stretches of gravel. A few are primarily gravel-road trips. You’re not going to be comfortable negotiating some of the tours in an RV or towing a trailer. Remember that gravel roads get muddy, worse as winter progresses. In summer and fall they get dusty.
   Several routes are closed by snow in late fall and winter, and are so identified in the “notes” section at the start of each chapter. THEY SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED WHEN SNOWBOUND!
   Most importantly, many tours travel through working forests. That means you may encounter -- as in coming at you head-on -- fully-loaded log trucks, gravel trucks, water trucks, utility trucks, fire trucks, road graders or other heavy equipment. And as with any back-country travel, you'll encounter the occasional fallen rock and downed tree, but roads are rarely blocked for long
   The single most important rule to remember is: JUST TAKE IT SLOWLY.
   As for maps, those included in this book are all you need to complete the trips, but it never hurts to have more maps. Start with the State of Oregon highway map, then consider one of the privately produced regional maps. Chamber of commerce offices and info centers often have free “tear-off” maps.
U.S. Forest Service offices in Florence, Reedsport, Powers, Gold Beach and Brookings have maps for the Siuslaw and Siskiyou National Forests and for each respective ranger district. The Bureau of Land Management office in North Bend has detailed maps of BLM-managed areas. The combined Siskiyou National Forest/Coos Bay District BLM map is an excellent resource, available from either agency’s offices.
   A couple of the tours have their own guidebooks or brochures with maps, available from chamber of commerce offices, visitor information centers, county and state parks offices, the U.S. Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management.
   Map fever has soared to new heights with the use of global positioning satellite (GPS) technology, not to mention the advent of CD-ROM-based mapping software and Internet-available maps. Maps can be found at many places on-line, via government agencies and private sources, some of which are listed in the back of this book. There are errors and glitches in all of them. So I’ve worked hard to make the maps in this book as up-to-date as possible.
The best rule of thumb: when in doubt, stay on main roads. They'll lead you back to civilization. Every effort is made to maintain directional signs in the backcountry, but vandals, target-shooters and souvenir hunters wage a relentless siege.
   Once again, remember that you're in a neck of the woods seriously intent on farming trees. Get ready to behold some formidable clearcuts, along with the systematic transformation of mixed-species forest into Douglas fir tree farms. No politics intended, merely a factual note.
That's not to say the grandeur is gone. It's just that it exists these days in what I call islands, and seeking them out takes a bit of venturing in the backcountry.
So let's venture to an island . . . and have a picnic.

Here’s a sample chapter from the book:

LaVerne Park - Moon Creek Tour

Road conditions: Paved.
Notes: Roundtrip from Coos Bay to LaVerne County Park, 60 miles. Moon Creek loop adds about 20 miles. Good getaway from summer wind along coast. Camping, day-use, swimming, fishing.

    LaVerne Park is one of the crown jewels of the Coos County Parks system, and is actually two parks situated about 15 miles north of Coquille. Tucked into a narrow canyon along the Coquille River’s north fork, the park is well protected from the overcast, foggy or windy conditions that can prevail on the coast in summertime. Temperatures reach 80 and 90 degrees, making swimming, picnicking, camping and other such activities quite delightful.
   West LaVerne Park caters to reserved picnics for up to 300 people, and there are large, covered shelters for such events, as well as horseshoe pits, two softball fields, playground area and hiking trails. The main park offers camping and more group picnic areas with pavilions, another playground and ball field and such, and a swimming/wading area along a sandy beach.
   It’s all a nice drive, too. Beyond the park the road leads to paved roads through BLM land. You can make a loop out of part of the trek by continuing this way along Moon Creek. The forest roads are literally lined with wildflowers in summer, while in autumn you can enjoy the colorfully changing leaves of maples and other deciduous trees.

Getting There

   From Coos Bay, head south on US 101 about 5 miles and take Highway 42 to Coquille. Take the West Coquille exit (West Central Blvd.), following signs to LaVerne Park. In 1 mile turn left on Fairview Rd., following signs to Fairview, LaVerne Park.
The road rolls through the lush pasturelands, passing peaceful country places. It weaves easily through the lowlands and begins a gentle climb into the hills, pushing up in earnest and topping off about 3.7 miles along. There are grand views to the east from here, miles of forest in various stages of growth, from recent clear-cuts to older tracts.
   Take it easy around the tight curves, then relax for the ride down toward Burton Prairie. About 7 miles from Coquille is Fairview and the “Four Corners” intersection with the Coos Bay Wagon Road (called Lone Pine Ln. along here). The store is last chance for provisions on this trek.
   Proceed (N) across the intersection, still following signs to LaVerne Park, and passing many homey residences. The road follows the sinews of the Coquille River’s north fork, down there in a jungle of blackberry vine and brush.
   If you’re here in summer, the temperature rises delightfully in the sheltered canyons and small valleys, and the air is rich with birdsong and the smell of blossoms. A classic old Smokey the Bear sign signals the end of “civilization” as the road plunges into the woods, and not far beyond is West LaVerne Park, where there’s camping and group facilities.
   The “main” park is just beyond, with camping, day-use, swimming and fishing. At this writing day-use was free.
   Seeking sun, or shade? There are picnic tables and benches set about strategically for both. Other corners of the park offer places to play everything from volleyball to horseshoes, or you can just enjoy the farther reaches of cool serenity.
   That vexing wind of the coast has been left far behind; it’s mellowed to a gentle breeze that actually feels refreshing in the countrified heat, as does the river: wonderful and not cold at all.

   Onward to Moon Creek
   This, you might say, sounds like a fine enough outing. And you’d be correct. You could go to LaVerne Park, have a nice stay, turn around and come back. Why not? But for continued exploration, after a sojourn in LaVerne Park, press on (N) beyond the park.
   In about 1.7 miles, turn right (E) on paved Moon Creek Rd., BLM 26-11-33.0 The road crosses a concrete bridge and heads east along Moon Creek, which flows through a picture-perfect corridor of sheltering alders. You’re in serious wildflower country now, and the way during much of the summer is gloriously hemmed in with iris, tiger lilies, foxglove and many other varieties, along with such blooming shrubs as salmonberry and ocean spray.
   After about 3.5 miles of level ambling through this wondrous forest, the road begins a gentle climb. The wildflowers now cascade off sheer hillsides, while succulent rockfasts burst forth in blossom from every nook and cranny. The climb becomes more pronounced as the road crosses the watershed divide.
Many intriguing-looking side roads intersect Moon Creek Rd., but stick to pavement. In about 7.4 miles from LaVerne Park is a “T” intersection with BLM 27-10-6.0. Turn right (S). The road heads downhill, offering views through the trees. Down, down we go!
   At the bottom of the canyon, about 11.7 miles from LaVerne Park, is another “T” intersection, this one with BLM 27-11-29.0. This is Middle Creek Rd., although it’s unmarked here except for a Growing Forest Tour sign. Turn right (S).
    The road follows Middle Creek, another pretty little stream bubbling through an arching canopy of white-barked alder. Here, too, are many huge moss-covered maples, their big leaves cool and green in summer and golden-hued in autumn.
   A scattering of homes announces a gradual return from the deeper woods. More ranches and farms appear, and at about 20.7 miles from the start of this expedition at LaVerne Park is a “T” intersection with Lone Pine Ln. Turn right (W) and follow it about 5.3 miles back to Fairview, and from there turn left (S) to return to Coquille and Coos Bay.

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